If you would like to add an inlay to your project, here are a few tricks we hope will be helpful.

The most recommended solution is to embed the inlay during veneer splicing (see splicing tutorial).

But if, as ourselves, you need to add an inlay after the veneers have been glued on the substrate (in our case, the splicing between our two sheets opened, surely because we did not let the veneers enough time to adapt to the temperature conditions in the workshop before proceeding with splicing).

So in order to save the panel, we decided to replace the open unspliced area with an inlay (hence this tutorial).

Of course, those of us who, with their know-how, master the joinery and marquetry techniques, will surely find this tutorial not to be very professional. This tutorial is first and foremost for people who would like to perfect their projects without having to start over from scratch.                                  

Necessary items :

  • A pencil

  • A metal riglet

  • A box cutter

  • Gummed or adhesive non-embossed paper.

  • Standard wood glue, PVA-type that you can buy in supermarkets. For this tutorial, we chose a quick-drying glue but it can also be done with a glue that takes the usual, common time to dry.

  • A paintbrush.

  • An iron.

  • A cotton dishtowel or tissue paper (generally used to wrap shoes – check your shoe boxes !)

1/ Measure your inlay width and trace a strip of the same width where you want to embed the inlay.

2/ With a cutter and a riglet, cut off the strip you just traced. Make sure to well place the riglet so that it will protect the veneer area that will remain on the substrate.

3/ In order to take off the strip, heat up the strip using the nose of the iron. This should do the trick without too much difficulty.

4/ Once the strip is off, protect the veneers on both sides with the adhesive paper before gluing.


5/ Paste and spread the glue on both substrate and inlay.


6/ Take the adhesive paper off and let dry.




7/ Once the glue is dry, put the inlay into place.

8/ Put a dishtowel or tissue paper on top of the panel and heat up the glue with the iron. If some bits of tissue paper stick on the veneers, don’t worry, they will go away upon sanding.

9/ Your inlay is now embedded to your substrate.

If the cut area between the two veneer sheets is finally too wide of 1 or 2mm, it is possible to use some wood pulp in the same color as the main species used so that you can fill in the gap (you can make your own wood pulp: use the sawdust from sanding and a bit of wood glue. Be careful and use a little bit more of wood pulp so that it will create a small bump that will be evened after sanding. Indeed, better use more than not enough.)